Beatdown

Test

Day 1 (Continued)

Day one, ended up being much easier than expected. The real difficulty will probably come around day 14 or so when all of the excitement wears off and then it just becomes a chore. Anyway, I got some really fun waves even though my arms were dead and my legs could barely support me it still ended up being fun. Just like I remember from the last streak I did, I really don't remember a day where I regretted going out in the water. It's more a problem of just getting out of the water. One other thing that I noted today is that the El Porto attitude still exists and it is as strong as ever, some things will never change.

Day one

Haven't gotten on the water it and I'm a little bit nervous to do so because it's going to start something that I can't stop. Anyway, here goes.

Surf 'til it hurts...

Session one: Silly - got some crazy good waves - surfed all morning. The only bad thing was just before I got out of the water some clown snaked me on a set, which really pissed me off. I let him hear it. Other than that I had a really good surf, I sat inside for a while, because everyone was waiting for the sets, and I got wave after wave. Saw the professor out there just before I got out. He promptly got a bomb.


Session two: Nutty - Dropped in a some crazy low tide bowls - Timing is back. I let go a a couple. Yeah, so bowly, no floaters here. Barrels, under-the-lip snaps, cutties, and open face slices. I surfed for a solid 2 1/2 hours almost 3 - in the arvo, I could barely walk up the hill. Was bad because dub c came over, tinker bell and company came over for UFC and I was dead. Silvia got choked out by Nogueira, it was sweet.

I gotta say that it was a good day...

Although yesterday had its moments, today had more waves and I unloaded on a few of them. Had to rock the hoody, but well worth it. Finally, I was kind of warm even though it was freezing - hat made all the difference. Talked to dude about about tech stuff out in the water, which was pretty cool to get some research done as I was surfing. Anyway, some really meaty waves to generate speed -the skills are on the rebound. Had an upside down backhand and then followed it up with 2 more snaps - really stoked on that one. Had a fronty openface snap-back that felt really solid. A lot of wind swell out there today, but the offshores organized it enough - was so fun. Back on it for sure, I can't wait until tomorrow.