Surf 'til it hurts...

Session one: Silly - got some crazy good waves - surfed all morning. The only bad thing was just before I got out of the water some clown snaked me on a set, which really pissed me off. I let him hear it. Other than that I had a really good surf, I sat inside for a while, because everyone was waiting for the sets, and I got wave after wave. Saw the professor out there just before I got out. He promptly got a bomb.


Session two: Nutty - Dropped in a some crazy low tide bowls - Timing is back. I let go a a couple. Yeah, so bowly, no floaters here. Barrels, under-the-lip snaps, cutties, and open face slices. I surfed for a solid 2 1/2 hours almost 3 - in the arvo, I could barely walk up the hill. Was bad because dub c came over, tinker bell and company came over for UFC and I was dead. Silvia got choked out by Nogueira, it was sweet.

I gotta say that it was a good day...

Although yesterday had its moments, today had more waves and I unloaded on a few of them. Had to rock the hoody, but well worth it. Finally, I was kind of warm even though it was freezing - hat made all the difference. Talked to dude about about tech stuff out in the water, which was pretty cool to get some research done as I was surfing. Anyway, some really meaty waves to generate speed -the skills are on the rebound. Had an upside down backhand and then followed it up with 2 more snaps - really stoked on that one. Had a fronty openface snap-back that felt really solid. A lot of wind swell out there today, but the offshores organized it enough - was so fun. Back on it for sure, I can't wait until tomorrow.