Sunday, February 3, 2008

Surf 'til it hurts...



Session one: Silly - got some crazy good waves - surfed all morning. The only bad thing was just before I got out of the water some clown snaked me on a set, which really pissed me off. I let him hear it. Other than that I had a really good surf, I sat inside for a while, because everyone was waiting for the sets, and I got wave after wave. Saw the professor out there just before I got out. He promptly got a bomb.


Session two: Nutty - Dropped in a some crazy low tide bowls - Timing is back. I let go a a couple. Yeah, so bowly, no floaters here. Barrels, under-the-lip snaps, cutties, and open face slices. I surfed for a solid 2 1/2 hours almost 3 - in the arvo, I could barely walk up the hill. Was bad because dub c came over, tinker bell and company came over for UFC and I was dead. Silvia got choked out by Nogueira, it was sweet.


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